Situated approximately 400 kilometres from Perth on the south coast of Western Australia, the coastline around Albany boasts some of the best sea-cliff climbing to be found in Australia. The scenery is spectacular and the climbing is superb. The rock in this area is predominantly granite and most climbs abound with cracks and flakes.

Good bouldering is also common and easily accessible, some within walking distance of the Post Office although most is also on the coast. Climbing areas vary from the "Adventure" zone around Albany itself, to the remote, rugged, black coastal cliffs of West Cape Howe which are accessible only by four wheel drive. Less then 40km north of Albany is the Porongorup Range, and approximately 80km north of the City is the Stirling Range National Park, yet another superb area for climbing.

Travel 80km west to Walpole and then go 28km north and you find yourself in Mt Frankland, or travel east from Albany and near to Cheynes Beach you'll discover the lovely Mermaid Point area.

It should be noted that no bolts or any other form of fixed protection are permitted in the Albany region but are permitted in West Cape Howe. We hope that visitors will respect this convention which was set in place by negotiation between Climbers and Authorities to preserve the pristine nature of the rock in this particular zone.

Many of the best climbing areas are located in National Parks and visitors are advised to visit the CALM (Conservation and Land Management) Office in Serpentine Road and familiarise themselves with any restrictions that may be in force in the National Parks of the region. Access is an issue everywhere and we enjoy almost unfettered entry to all climbing areas in the district.
 

Collaboration between local climbers and CALM Officers has ensured that we are almost completely unrestricted in where we may climb. It would be helpful if visiting climbers continue to reinforce this mutually co-operative approach.

An extremely comprehensive guide to climbing on the cliffs of the south coast is available from most outdoor and adventure-sport equipment outlets in Perth. "South Coast Rock - A Guide to climbing on WA's South Coast" covers all areas from Walpole in the west through Albany to Cheynes Beach in the east.

The guide is the best available reference to this area and visiting climbers are encouraged to purchase a copy and keep it in their pack. Without the guide you'll miss out on many of the best routes.
 

CAWA, the Climbing Association of WA also periodically produces a magazine. Other more general guides to climbing in WA are also available. In these you will find information about routes in the Porongorup and Stirling areas. These publications are also on sale in Perth climbing and outdoor equipment shops.

As little climbing equipment or consumables are available in Albany or surrounding areas (apart from the odd carabiner and bag of chalk that you will find in "Trailblazers" on the Albany Highway) it is advisable to ensure that you have whatever you need before leaving Perth.

Chalk is essential on most of the routes exposed to the ocean. On-shore winds can carry salt spray up to 12 kilometres inland, and many crags prove slimy on rough days. When you are halfway up a pitch and there is a fine coating of salt on the rock you'll be glad you brought that extra bag of chalk with you!
 

The coastline is unprotected from the Southern Ocean and you should be aware that unpredictable swells, surges and "king waves" are common in the vicinity, even on calm days.

As many of the climbs begin at, or within a few metres of, sea level, great care should be exercised to avoid being swept off the rock as rescue from the ocean will probably be impossible in remote areas. Good judgement and common sense should be exercised, as there have been tragedies in this area.
 

There is plenty of good cheap accommodation in the district but if you contemplate visiting during the warmer summer months (December through to February) you'd be wise to book in advance. Check with the Albany Tourist Information Centre for details.

Summer daytime temperatures can reach 40C on occasion but generally average 25C. The UV rating in the south coastal area of the state is much higher than in Perth. Sunscreen is essential.

During the summer the area experiences sea breezes of 15 to 25 knots almost every afternoon, producing much cooler climbing conditions on southern facing crags.

The autumn months of March, April and May are usually dry and sunny and temperatures are lower. Winds are generally calmer and this can be one of the best times for visiting climbers, accommodation being more readily available. 
 

The winter months are usually wet, windy and cold but climbing is not out of the question. It is possible to get sunburned in July in Albany.

The months of August and September see intense low pressure weather systems in the area south of the state often producing massive swells in the Southern Ocean.

This can provide some spectacular sights along the coast as waves often exceed the height of the coastal cliffs with salt water and spray soaring 100 feet above the top of the crag.

These are not good days to climb the coastal rock but in the Stirling and Porongorup Ranges just north of Albany are yet another two superb areas to explore.

It is not intended that this page should be used as a climbing guide but I have included de-script-ions of a few of the more popular "Classic" climbs to provide a taste of what is here.

These de-script-ions and many of the photographs and diagrams on this page have been reproduced with the kind permission of Shane Richardson, the author of "South Coast Rock". Shane is an experienced climber and is intimately familiar with the cliffs of the district. He has been most helpful in providing information and advice.

As with any other information that is related to the Sport of Rock Climbing, the authors of this page emphasise that climbing is a potentially dangerous sport and your safety is your own responsibility.

 
The Gap Area
The Gap proper is a 25 metre zawn and one of the state's top tourist attractions, so spectators are plentiful. The routes are very atmospheric and in rough seas climbing is likely to be out of the question. The impressive walls flanking the zawn offer the longest routes (40m) of the area.

Surf's Up Wall - Located about 20m to the left of the Natural Bridge. All routes are reached by abseiling to a wave platform at the base of the cliff. Alternatively if you don't want to get wet, abseil to a small ledge about 6m above the wave platform. Best at low tide or calm seas.

Surf's Up 22m 15

Delightfully airy climbing up the seam 3m right of the arete.

K. Carrigan, R. Rathbone Mar. 86
 

Pipeline 22m 17
Start the climb on the right side of the arete. Continue up the right hand crack to the top. Take plenty of camming devices.

First Ascent unknown.

 
Horrie Cometh Wall - The main "stage" located directly opposite the lookout.

Where the Horrie Cometh 35m 17

Climb the right-tending crack on the right end of the platform to the first small ledge. Move left past flakes and up to another ledge. Continue up flake, then traverse back right along horizontal break to finish up crack above.

K. Carrigan, R. Tyson. Mar. 86
 

Sea Wolf Wall - The impressive wall flaking the east side of the zawn - a continuation of the Horrie Cometh Wall.

It's a Beautiful Day 30m 17

Abseil to a small ledge, then climb the line of cracks and flakes up the face just right of the corner.

K.Bennet, S. Gartland Nov. 91

Peak Head

The magnificent granite dome of Peak Head rises 100 metres abruptly out of the Southern Ocean and stands as a prominent feature on the Albany coastline. It is situated in the Torndirrup National Park and combines a spectacular setting with some of the most elegant of crack lines and superb technical faces, to offer some of the finest climbing on the south coast.

Situated 20km south of Albany, access is gained from the small carpark off the gravel track which leads off Stony Hill Rd just before the main carpark at Stony Hill. Access is gained via a 2.5km walk in through wilderness area on well-defined tracks.

Skysurfer - 45m 20

Fine face climbing with sporty runouts on the easy sections. Six bolts plus natural gear - #2 Friend after 2nd bolt and #2.5 Friend at extreme left of prominent diagonal groove.

G Brysland, I Arnaud Feb 92
 

Albatross - 105m 15

Magnificent position and superb climbing

42m 15. Start at the far right hand end of the west face (see face map). Bridge right into the ramp/crack system and layback this to a blank section. Friction moves lead right across the wall onto a ledge from where a gentle angled crack is climbed to the sloping belay ledge.
23m 15. Continue up crack system, then layback the leftmost crack line, before a few metres of off-width chimney leads to the pinnacle belay on the right, below the final dome.
40m 15. Step delicately left of the pinnacle to a committing smear move. The first few metres are the crux (rated by some as being 17 or 18) and can be protected with very small wires. Continue up and as the angle eases, move back right, following the higher of the two ramps to the summit.

Mount Frankland

Set in the dense Karri forests 30km north of Walpole the granite domes of Mt. Frankland rise to a height of 422 metres and offer an outstanding view of the surrounding region from the summit. Superb climbing, comfortable camping and convenient access combine to make this one of the best inland climbing areas in WA.

Lower Slab - The lower slab is the first of 3 levels that take you to the summit.

Free Burma 160m 16***

Probably the longest route possible at Mt. Frankland, it's a nice climb in itself and useful for gaining access to the summit. Well protected with 8 bolts (hangers required) and a selection of wires and camming devices.

i. 48m 16 Climb the slab past 2 bolts (hard to spot) to the overlap. Natural protection is available before and after the overlap. Continue up, past 3 more bolts to the double bolt belay/abseil anchors on the Terrace.

ii. 27m 14 From the left side of the Terrace climb straight up for 3m to a bolt, then traverse left along a weakness towards an obvious indentation. Move up to clip another bolt, then continue up and slightly left to belay on the left side of the Wreckage Ledge (1 bolt and natural gear).

iii. 35m 4 Solo to the top and enjoy the view.
 
This page was prepared by Sylvia Gartland, Rock Climbing is a hazardous activity and the Authors disclaim any responsibility for any accident or mishap that may occur as a result of use of the information on this page.

For more information contact local climber;  Andreas Roilo on 9842 2495